Continuing the journey towards desert, wilderness and deep inside we moved in the direction of Mitzpe Ramon. Slowly desert overtook whatever was left from lifesupportin lowlands. Dryness, heat and emptiness grew. But there is nothing dull about the desert. It is colourful, with browns, beiges, goldens, whites, reds and even blacks. All of them warm colours. It is also full of hills, mountains, rocks, canyons, hidden places. Surprises are enourmos and very well hidden. On our way to Mitzpe Ramon we visited kibutz house and grave of Ben Gurion (I will write about it some time in the future) and finally we arrived to Mitzpe Ramon. This small, desert town in on the verge of Mahtesh Ramon - one of 5 mahteshes, geological specials very unique and only to be found in this part of the world. Out of 7 mahteshes 5 are in Israel, on Negev and two on Sinai peninsula in Egypt. Therefore it is very local wonder.
Mahteshes are former islands in the sea that used to cover this place millenia before. Their summits, stuck above sea level, were covered by hard, water-resistent layer of rock beneath which sands and very soft, easy to dissolve materials could be found. Due to some geological process (possibly earthquake) mahteshes tillted to one side and the hard layer was partially, on top, destroyed. This allowed water to penetrate inside and slowly take all the insides leaving the crown of hills, rocks and mighty desert mountains guarding the depression - so all mahteshes were created. And Mahtesh Ramon is the biggest of them all.
In Mitzpe Ramon a lovely hostel may be found with very helpful and supporting staff who know all about possible hikes in vicinity. It is The Green Backpackers. I rarely mention names but this time I just have to write about them, they were so good :)
We spent 2 days in vicinity becoming more and more amazed and enchanted by desert, by Negev.... Let me tell you about them.
Our first hike was En Saharonin. We started very early (few are fool enough to wander through desert in July :)), early enough to witness sunrise while already hiking. Sunsets on desert are long and there is enough time to take light at different stages. Sunrises are very different - abrapt, impatient. Light changes during seconds and if we don't watch the given rock constantly the very moment we return our eyes to it after just few seconds it looks different.
Our first part of hike was in canyon and for quite a long time we menaged to keep ahead of the sun staying in shadow while places we just left were already in full sun. Finally of course we lost this uphill battle as we had to and it was time to cover heads and become used to the scorching sun.
Early in the morning one may also see lots of wildlife and Negev (one of the moistest deserts if one may say so) is full of life. We saw ibexes (they are really everywhere), gazelles, gerbils (small, desert rodents) and a wide choice of lizards. The next day we even spotted wolf or hyena but as it run away from us instantly after being spotted we're not entirely sure which one was it.
Slowly we became ascent, the sun overtook everything leaving not much contrast and the hot hours started, but in the canyon it felt like at the beginning.....
Next day we went to Ein Avdat National Park. The approach takes one deep into the ravine, near Ben Gurion's grave where one leaves a car (if came by car) on the parking lot. The only disadvantage is that the upper part of the trail is one-way and to go back to the car one needs some effort.
Ein Avdat is a ravine with lake and waterfall (on the desert!!!) hidden completly between narrow walls. It is home to some wildlife and ibexes were accompaning me for quite a distance! The absolute treasure which is water on desert, the feeling of being in wonderful, hidden, guarded spot is great! The trail leads up the slope allowing more and more views without ever loosing from the sight this small wonder. It really is incredible place.
From Mitzpe Ramon we travelled towards Eilat and on our way visited Canyon Ada where narrow ravine (on times it is hard to pass between rocks) leads up with the help of few ropes and ladders. Protection from direct sun and remotness are very welcome and our final trip through desert was in Timna Park, a mining set for Egyptian middle kingdom (perhaps even old one). It was copper they were after but for contemporary visitors the rock formations, arches similar to ones in Utah, old mining tunnels and antient paintings and carvings on the walls are what we are after. And there is no disappointment. There is also feeling of remotness and vastness and solitude even though this park is visited so often. But it is big enough and wild enough to spare you any artifitial, Disney-like feeling. It is still desert.
Desert I learnt to love.
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