The monster is coming back :(

Raise of anti-Semitism in Western Europe

Please read the article linked above. Even if we will leave comments aside (for one reason or the other) the facts, pure facts, remain grim.
In Europe, where different groups are talked about by activists or politics as victimised one group suffering more and more persecution is totally left out of the public picture - Jews (well, it looks like it may start to change and it is high time).
As a history freak I have read enough about 30s - from different sources - to see similiarities that are chilling to the bone. Sure, it is not opened, state-sponsored anti-Semitism. It couldn't have been! Pogroms are not organised and sponsored by the state as in tzarist Russia and no discrimination law will be passed (with exceptions, but that in a while). This epoque is over (Thank God) but the feeling of unsafety and real danger for Jewish minority are very much present in contemporary Europe.

Synagogues are monitores with CCTV (and often acts of vandalism are at least tried, while no church or mosque needs that type of close and necessary survillance). Jewish schools more and more need protection. Wearing kippa or other parts of Jewish religious wear may get you into trouble more easily in some countries than any wear or symbol connected to any other religion. The feeling of insecurity and often being unwelcomed in one's home country is not uncommon. And all of these for very good reasons.

Try to think what picture of the world one passed to one's child if the religious school the child attends needs guards and security system similiar to the one on the airport and still it may happen that an extremist with a gun will pick up this school (and not randomly which, unfortunately, may happen anywhere, but on purpose because it is JEWISH school). And the child is enrolled to this school in the first place not because the family is very observant (though it may be and it is their constitutional right - freedom of religion) but because his/ her peers (some of them) didn't like his/ her name, or pendant with a star of David, or their background (about which everybody knows as children in schools know such things). And other peers and teachers didn't react (maybe for fear of perpetrators and their families, maybe because they share somewhat similiar attitude, maybe because it is easier to stay away from trouble). And bullying went on. And when family goes to synagogue there is survillance and guard at the door. And there are clear no-go zones in the city they live in because it would have been dangerous to do so (as such zones are in all big cities for law-abiding citizens I just want to clear out that there are more such zones for Jews, if their Jewishness is visible in any way).
And when neighbours - nice people - keep telling you that Israel, the only Jewish state, is rouge as they read it in paper, seen the street play (of the kind shown in Dublin last year by activists) or the priest told so in church (yes, it happens, I heard it myself). People who never heard about rockets falling on Israel from Gaza, are unaware about lack of humanitarian crisis in Gaza, unaware that all citizens of Israel have the same rights while Abbas calls for Judenrein Palestine, unaware of existence and plight of Jewish refugees of 1948. Only one side of the story is ever reported.
What if this child hears in the streets "we will kill you, dirty Jew" (as in the linked article).
Wouldn't you start wondering if it is still your country and home even if it was for few (or sometimes teen) generations?

The Jewish diaspora in Europe is vanishing.

If democracy is to survive it has to be protected. If Jewish diaspora in Europe will vanish (as is already happening) because they don't feel safe here and can see no future for themselves and their children, it means that democracy in Europe failed her test and it also means that each and every one of us may be next.

Let me remind the famous word by Martin Niemoller:
First they came for the communists, and I did not speak out - because I was not a communist;
Then they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out - because I was not a socialist;
Then they came for the trade unionists, and I did not speak out - because I was not a trade unionist;
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out - because I was not a Jew;
Then they came for me - and there was no one left to speak out for me.

Thanking for not commemorating victims!

Who opposed minute of silence
thanking for refusal to keep the minute of silence
from terrorist to role model - and what's next????

The above links show the situation so widely known by now that I will just quickly remind the facts. It is 40 years exactly after massacre of 11 Israeli athletes during Olympic Games in Munich by Palestinian terrorists from Black September organization.
For all those years there were people - notably widow of one of the murdered, Ankie Spitzer, who tried for commemorating victims by observing one minute's silence during the opening ceremony of Olympic Games.

This year, as it is very "round" anniversary there was especially wide movement to do so. Petitions were signed by well over 100,000 people worldwide, many members of parliaments from different countries supported the idea, even more sport stars wanted commemorating their fellow sportsmen. To no avail. IOC refused it explaining that not doing so will be more in accordance with the spirit of Olympic Games and politics should not be mixed into them.

Tell the true, I never saw this explanation as anything but excuse but with revealing truth about Arab countries lobbying for refusal and with PA authorities thanking for refusal any statement that IOC's refusal was anything but pure politic decision (something that they said they didn't want to enter the world of sport) is ridiculous!

Arab countries bullied IOC to refuse the commemoration of victims, PA authorities thanked them for it, and it is the same authority (look at the third link) that treats the perpetrators of terror acts against Israel - including the authors of Munich massacre - as heroes.
So we receive situation when sponsors and supporters of murderers thank IOC for not commemorating victims. WHOA!!!!!! That is something even Orwell might have problems imagining!

And nobody apparently sees a big problem with it! And giving up to bullying and terror. And being played by politics and money from terror-supporting states, and breach of every Olympic ideal there ever was cited in Ancient Greece and later (not like they were widely obeyed and put to life, but here there is not even small pretension about trying to apply them or hide the influence).

Negev Desert 2

Continuing the journey towards desert, wilderness and deep inside we moved in the direction of Mitzpe Ramon. Slowly desert overtook whatever was left from lifesupportin lowlands. Dryness, heat and emptiness grew. But there is nothing dull about the desert. It is colourful, with browns, beiges, goldens, whites, reds and even blacks. All of them warm colours. It is also full of hills, mountains, rocks, canyons, hidden places. Surprises are enourmos and very well hidden. On our way to Mitzpe Ramon we visited kibutz house and grave of Ben Gurion (I will write about it some time in the future) and finally we arrived to Mitzpe Ramon. This small, desert town in on the verge of Mahtesh Ramon - one of 5 mahteshes, geological specials very unique and only to be found in this part of the world. Out of 7 mahteshes 5 are in Israel, on Negev and two on Sinai peninsula in Egypt. Therefore it is very local wonder.

Mahteshes are former islands in the sea that used to cover this place millenia before. Their summits, stuck above sea level, were covered by hard, water-resistent layer of rock beneath which sands and very soft, easy to dissolve materials could be found. Due to some geological process (possibly earthquake) mahteshes tillted to one side and the hard layer was partially, on top, destroyed. This allowed water to penetrate inside and slowly take all the insides leaving the crown of hills, rocks and mighty desert mountains guarding the depression - so all mahteshes were created. And Mahtesh Ramon is the biggest of them all.

In Mitzpe Ramon a lovely hostel may be found with very helpful and supporting staff who know all about possible hikes in vicinity. It is The Green Backpackers. I rarely mention names but this time I just have to write about them, they were so good :)

We spent 2 days in vicinity becoming more and more amazed and enchanted by desert, by Negev.... Let me tell you about them.
Our first hike was En Saharonin. We started very early (few are fool enough to wander through desert in July :)), early enough to witness sunrise while already hiking. Sunsets on desert are long and there is enough time to take light at different stages. Sunrises are very different - abrapt, impatient. Light changes during seconds and if we don't watch the given rock constantly the very moment we return our eyes to it after just few seconds it looks different.
Our first part of hike was in canyon and for quite a long time we menaged to keep ahead of the sun staying in shadow while places we just left were already in full sun. Finally of course we lost this uphill battle as we had to and it was time to cover heads and become used to the scorching sun.
Early in the morning one may also see lots of wildlife and Negev (one of the moistest deserts if one may say so) is full of life. We saw ibexes (they are really everywhere), gazelles, gerbils (small, desert rodents) and a wide choice of lizards. The next day we even spotted wolf or hyena but as it run away from us instantly after being spotted we're not entirely sure which one was it.

Slowly we became ascent, the sun overtook everything leaving not much contrast and the hot hours started, but in the canyon it felt like at the beginning.....

Next day we went to Ein Avdat National Park. The approach takes one deep into the ravine, near Ben Gurion's grave where one leaves a car (if came by car) on the parking lot. The only disadvantage is that the upper part of the trail is one-way and to go back to the car one needs some effort.
Ein Avdat is a ravine with lake and waterfall (on the desert!!!) hidden completly between narrow walls. It is home to some wildlife and ibexes were accompaning me for quite a distance! The absolute treasure which is water on desert, the feeling of being in wonderful, hidden, guarded spot is great! The trail leads up the slope allowing more and more views without ever loosing from the sight this small wonder. It really is incredible place.

From Mitzpe Ramon we travelled towards Eilat and on our way visited Canyon Ada where narrow ravine (on times it is hard to pass between rocks) leads up with the help of few ropes and ladders. Protection from direct sun and remotness are very welcome and our final trip through desert was in Timna Park, a mining set for Egyptian middle kingdom (perhaps even old one). It was copper they were after but for contemporary visitors the rock formations, arches similar to ones in Utah, old mining tunnels and antient paintings and carvings on the walls are what we are after. And there is no disappointment. There is also feeling of remotness and vastness and solitude even though this park is visited so often. But it is big enough and wild enough to spare you any artifitial, Disney-like feeling. It is still desert.

Desert I learnt to love.

Negev Desert 1

Today I will write as a classic (or not so classic, I don't know) tourist :) about one of the places that I have found absolutely astounding. And it is desert (and today - Negev desert).

When in the Bible God speks to people we can find that most of them are at the moment on the desert. Abraham after leaving Ur (the most sofisticated and developed city of his time) lives on desert and that is where he meats 3 travelers and invites them to his tent. It is also where he pleads with God for the fate of Sodom and Gomorrah asking for their salvation if even as few as 5 rightous will be found there.
It is on desert when God speks to Hagar (first time when she runs away from Sarah, second time when Ismael is nearly dying of thirst).
It is on desert while Moses sees burning bush and approaches to have the mission of his life revealed.
Desert, wilderness is the place where God communicates with people so often. Where we are free of the noise, contamination and distraction of the city/ village/ others. When we have left "narrow place" (as Egypt was called) and in this instance it is the narrow place in our minds and souls that prevents us from hearing God (it may be very scary after all for us common people to hear His voice and feel His presence, remember how Hebrews were terrified when Moses told them they are about to hear the voice of God, their Lord?).

Desert has something that shortens distance between us and the Lord, takes us away from our everyday lives, our preoccupations, fears, wants....

We left Jerusalem with our tiny Fiat Panda (the cheapest car available) and started with visiting Tel Guvrin in Judean Lowlands. It is not yet a desert, barely semi-desrt with still enough plants and bushes to give the impression of life but yet with the bringing of this slightly forbidding feeling that we start entering harsh, unforgiving, wild territory that has never been tamed and we need to keep our guard.
Tel Maresha, the highest hill of Tel Guvrin, is the place to which we can find references in the Bible. It was fortified by King Rehoboam of Judah following the campaign to the region of the Egyptian Pharaoh Shishak: “And Rehoboam...built cities for defense in Judah...Gath, and Mareshah, and Ziph” (2 Chron. 11:5-8). 

For hundreds of years people were living here, planting olive trees, making olive oil (in caves, giving some kind of protection against scorching sun, there can still be found whole production lines for olive), burying their dead.... It was Hellenistic city during Hashmonean era and after Maccabees rising Hashmonean kings were trying to convert its inhibitants to Judaism. During Roman period the city has been abandoned leaving for us to see their factories, ruins of houses, quarries and graves. Over one of the graves, in Greek, there was written good-bye that even after 2,000 years sounds so powerful.... See for yourselves - below some pictures from Tel Guvrin and the next piece of my impressions on Negev (dealing with THE Negev itself) in next post.

Hurva synagogue

Just few days ago I have visited a very special place in old Jerusalem - Hurva synagogue in Jewish Quarter of the Old City.
Hurva means "ruin" in Hebrew and of course it is not the oficial name of the synagogue. Its name is Beit Yaakov synagogue, but because of its history the name "Hurva" is much more widely known and used. This place has a fascinating history and I will try to tell you somewhat about it.

In 1700 a group of Ashkenazi Jews from Poland came to Jerusalem with their rabbi - Yehuda Hasid. They were approximately 500 people strong group, extremly poor. Unfortunately just 5 days after their arrival to Jerusalem their beloved rabbi passed away and they were left on their own without knowledge of local languages and customs (although Sephardi Jews were nearly always present in Jerusalem Ashkenazis were at the moment the very new arrivals).
They started by building synagogue which seemed fair move except that to do so, specially in highly biurocratic and corrupt Ottoman Empire, they had to loan hardly with their Arab neighbours.
Hurva was built but the loans could not be repaid and as a result of debts and growing tention between Muslims and Jews Hurva was burned in 1721.

During subsequent years many groups of Jews were trying to rebuild it but due to Ottoman law forbidding building new churches or synagogues or repairing the old ones and due to demands of Arabs who credited the building of the first synagogue (they demanded repayment from any Ashkenazi Jew who was in vicinity for next 90 years weather or not they have even heard the story) the trials were not successfull.

In 1836 another group of Ashkenazi Jews collected the money to repay debts and used the window created by temporary power of so called Albanian dynasty over Jerusalem to secur building rights. But it took another 20 years to rebuild synagogue and only in 1856 the second Hurva was opened.

It was a beautiful synagogue - its descriptions, scatches, pictures and miniature are still impressive - but it did not survive even 100 years.
In May 1948 during the war of independance, when after the declaration of independance 7 Arab armies attacked newborn Israel, the Jewish Quarter came under siege. With its 2,000 people, only 200 of them man able to fight, and surrounded by Muslims from Muslim Quarter (33,000 inhibitants) and under shelling by Arab legion stationed on Mount of Olives the Quarter capitulated after 10 days (at that moment only 35 Jewish soldiers were alive and healthy). The Jews were partly taken as captives and partly expelled and the 19 years period of Jewish non-presence in the Old City started.
Two days after capitulation and without regards to international treaties Jordanians blew up all synagogues including Hurva. Thus Hurva became ruin for the second time. In 1967 Jerusalem was united and Jews returned to ruined quarter gradually rebuilding it. In 1973 one arch of Hurva was rebuilt (the rest stayed in ruins) as a reminder of what happened. Early in XXI century a committee was created for the rebuilding of Hurva synagogue, the actual work starting in 2006 and finished in 2010 - on Pesach 2010 Hurva was reopened. It changed colours a bit but the architecture is the very copy of the second Hurva.
Its rebuilding started some riots among Palestinians due to spread of news that rebuilding of Hurva is the sign that the 3rd temple will be soon build!

Hurva may be seen during tours - some in Hebrew and some in English, and of course during prayers.
It is very special place being not only synagogue but a standing and living piece of history.

Please find attached to this post pictures of Hurva from before 1948, from the time when it was blew up and as it was found in 1967, with one rebuilt arch and as it looks now with one wall encompassed in it.

Living in the world of terror

5 victims laid to rest
Just learnt she is pregnant

The above links are to the articles about victims of Wednesday's terrorist attack in Bulgaria targeted at Israeli tourists. Yesterday I have flew in from Ben Gurion airport in Tel Aviv. I was there when the plain from Burgas carrying wounded and survivors was expected. It was to land at 11.55, than at 1.55, finally it landed around 2.30 pm. I have seen Megan David Adom volunteers and workers waiting for its arrival, stern-faced, tense....
In front of the airport a row of ambulances were parked - one with the description "mobile emergency life saving unit". Waiting patiently for those to come. There were reporters (as would have been anywhere) but all members of supporting and medical services were so obviously affected! Nobody complained about this long wait, nobady relaxed, gave way to boredom or impatiency. They were waiting for their near and dear ones even if unknown to them personally.

What kind of world is this that holding the passport of given country makes you potential victim? That no matter what you believe, think or do you are percieved by some as enemy - in this case (and it is a notable one for various reasons) - because you are Jewish or Israeli. 2 millenia of persecution, Holocaust, more than 100 years of Arab terror and still so many don't see, don't care...

Imagine that it was your wife who after years of trials became finally pregnant and you lost her to the terror attack practically a day after receiving these exciting news! Imagine it was your daughter/ son, brother or sister leaving for vacation, carefree, happy, saying "see you" not to be ever seen again...

Those things happen everywhere - we have accidents, fires, earthquakes, criminals and so on - no place is completly "safe" (whatever that means) - but it is different if you know that you are a pray because of your ethnic background, or religion or - as in this case - citizenship. For Israeli Jews it is ALL of the above. And quite often you will even be said you deserved it as the speaker doesn't like your country's policy (or doesn't know it but thinks he doesn't like it). It is horrible!

Think about victims, their families, pray for them. I feel deeply compassionate and emphatic and very, very sad about it being the world - yes, my world too - where these kind of things happen and are not even unanimously condemned!